A day in Chioggia

If you want to get off the beaten path and have a glimpse of authentic life of an ordinary maritime community in the Venetian Lagoon head to Chioggia. The town has canals, beautiful medieval churches and a couple of interesting museums; add to those the charming laid-back atmosphere reminiscent of old days, excellent seafood and you will understand why Chioggia makes a lovely day trip from Venice. 

Chioggia

Although Chioggia is often described as a “little Venice”, it doesn’t have as many architectural gems or priceless artefacts like its neighbour. Stroll down the town’s main street, Corso del Popolo, which runs through the island from north to south, to see beautiful churches and small artisan shops. 

Pop in to the Chiesa di San Giacomo Apostolo to see fascinating ex-votos displayed on the walls. The painted votive offerings are tokens of gratitude to the Madonna della Navicella for miracles: escape from a fire or drowning boat, recovery from a grave illness. Another church that is worth a visit is the Chiesa di San Domenico sitting on a small island. There are works by Tintoretto and Bassano and an ancient wooden crucifix that locals believe to be the oldest in the world. Near the church, you can admire the white marble bridge with carved lions that crosses the Vena Canal lined up with fishing boats. 

The Marble Bridge

There is also an interesting small museum, Museo della Laguna Sud, in town where you can learn about the history of the southern part of the lagoon, see old boats and agricultural equipment.

Chioggia is renowned for its excellent seafood dishes. Make sure you visit the local bustling fish market to see locals stocking up on fresh fish on weekday mornings. At the market restaurants you can also sample excellent seafood, such traditional dishes as risotto a la ciosota (seafood risotto), cape sante al forno (scallops baked in cognac), bibarasse in cassopipa (clams cooked with onions). 

Photos via Flickr by: Patrick Giese, Fabio Veronesi.

A day in Treviso

Located only 12 miles from Venice, Treviso is overshadowed by its famous neighbour and often overlooked by foreign visitors. This lesser-known gem has a lot to offer: Venetian-style aristocratic palaces, Renaissance squares, romantic canals and no crowds, tacky souvenirs or overpriced restaurants. 

Treviso

Distinctively Venetian in character, Treviso was under La Serenissima’s rule for a long time. The city walls were constructed during the Venetian Republic and today they add a unique charm to Treviso’s atmosphere. Venetians took advantage of the city’s position circled by two rivers, the Sile and the Cagnan, and used the waterways to navigate, transport merchandise and power flourmills. In one of the oldest parts of Treviso, you will find one of the most atmospheric landmarks, a bustling fish market that has been here for centuries. 

Piazza dei Signori

In the city centre, the beautiful seven-domed Cathedral of San Pietro, Il Duomo, is home to the Annunciation by Titian and a few other stunning masterpieces. Ancient elegant palaces surround the picturesque Piazza dei Signori: the 12th-century Palazzo dei Trecento, once the seat of Treviso's government, 15th-century Palazzo del Podestà, Renaissance Palazzo Pretorio. Stroll along the city's main street Via Calmaggiore to admire Renaissance palaces with their splendid facades and arched doorways.

Make sure to check out the Santa Caterina Museum that houses a beautiful 14th-century fresco cycle of the life of St Ursula by Tomaso da Modena, a follower of Giotto. After a dose of culture, take a break walking along Treviso’s charming canals with weeping willows and pretty parks.

Palazzo del Podestà

Treviso is home to the clothing empire Benetton and you will find its flagship store in a prominent position behind the Palazzo dei Trecento in the town centre. There are many upmarket boutiques where you can indulge yourself in retail therapy without breaking the bank.

To sample local cuisine head to the old trattoria Toni del Spin that serves excellent pasta with a duck sauce, mushroom risotto and game dishes. For delicious fresh seafood dishes try Mardivino.

Photos via Flickr by: Antonio Cinotti, Régine Debatty, Lizandro Chrestenzen.

The Marriage of the Sea ceremony in Venice

For many centuries, in May, Venice has been celebrating the Feast of the Ascension (Festa della Sensa) with a beautiful ceremony called The Marriage of the Sea (Sposalizio del Mare). The festival goes back to the days of the Venetian Republic, La Serenissima, and commemorate two historical events.

The Return of the Bucentaur by Canaletto

In the year 1000, on May 9, the fleets dispatched by Doge Pietro II conquered Dalmatia defeating the Croatian and Narentine pirates that had been creating trouble for Venetian ships in the Adriatic. The second important event celebrated during the festivities took place in 1177 when Pope Alexander III and Holy Roman Emperor Frederick Barbarossa signed the peace treaty ending a century-long discord.

The Marriage of the Sea ceremony started with a procession sailing out of the lagoon, from St. Mark’s to the Church of San Nicolò on the Lido. It was led by the Doge’s golden ceremonial barge called “Bucentaur” (“Bucintoro” in Italian), which was like an opulent floating palace, 35 metres long and 8 metres high, with 168 oarsmen.  Historians say that La Serenissima built four Bucintoro boats with the last one being destroyed in 1798 by the Napoleon’s Army. Since then a more modest boat has been used for the ceremony, however, a project to build an exact replica of the last Bucintoro barge has been underway in Venice since 2008.

Festa della Sensa

Nowadays, the procession is presided by the Patriach of Venice and the Mayor with various civic dignitaries and military representatives who are followed by many beautifully decorated gondolas from the various rowing associations. During the mass at San Nicolò a golden ring is blessed and tossed in the water by the Mayor as a symbol of the city’s close ties with the sea and its historic marine dominance.

After the procession a four-oared gondolas regatta is organized which draws a lot of spectators. A big market is set up near the Church of San Nicolò where visitors can sample some Venetian gastronomic delights and soak up the festive atmosphere.

Photos by: Wikimedia Commons, Angelo Greco.

The best dishes to try in Venice

Venice is well known for its architectural gems, romantic canals and gondola rides. It is also a great city for food lovers as there are many good restaurants, trattorie and traditional wine bars (“bacari”) that serve delectable Venetian specialties that the city is famous for. Here is our pick of the best traditional dishes to try.

Venice

Polenta and schie 

Smooth corn polenta is a perfect match for tiny gray shrimps called “schie” from the Venetian lagoon. In the old days, poor fishermen ate the schie that were left at the end of the day from their catch. Today, some of the best eateries have this dish on their menu.

Sarde in saor

A typical Venetian sweet-sour dish made with fried sardines marinated in vinegar, onions, raisins and pine nuts. Its origins go back to medieval times when sailors and fishermen had to store fish for months away in the sea. Nowadays, it is served as an appetizer in many restaurants and bacari.

Sarde in Saor

Bigoli in Salsa

This simple wholegrain pasta dish with onions and salted sardines has been on Venetian tables since La Serenissima republic times. Today, it is more common to use anchovies instead of sardines.

Moeche 

If you happen to be in Venice in spring or late fall, do not miss this seafood delicacy. Moeche are soft shell crabs that are deep fried and served on their own, with a salad or polenta. 

Risi e Bisi

Risi e bisi 

Like most of Venetian food, this rice, pancetta, onions and green peas dish has a long history. For centuries, it used to be served in the Doges Palace on April 25, St. Mark’s Day. Many local restaurants offer risi e bisi all year around, however, to make sure you are getting the best quality, order it only in spring when green peas are in season.

Baicoli

Locals eat these dry biscuits dipped in coffee, dessert wines or zabaione cream. You can find them in restaurants or traditional bakeries in Venice. Centuries ago, baicoli were an important part of sailors’ ration during long journeys in the sea. 

Photos via Flickr by: Juan Salmoral, Cristina Rigutto, Wei-Duan Woo.

The Doge’s Palace

The Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale) is one of the top attractions in Venice where you can easily spend many hours wondering around surrounded by the Gothic splendour. Centrally located on the Piazza San Marco, the palace was the seat of the Venetian Republic’s government and the Doge’s residence for many centuries. 

Palazzo Ducale

The current building was constructed in the 14 -15^th centuries and became a museum in 1923. The Doge’s Palace with its lavish interior décor, vast halls and priceless artworks by Venetian masters attract over a million visitors every year.

Before entering the palace, linger outside admiring its exterior with Istrian marble columns, arching windows, elaborate pink Verona marble patterns.

Scala dei Giganti

Scala dei Giganti, the impressive staircase flanked by statues of the gods Mars and Neptune leads to the main floor in the palace. The Chamber of the Great Council, built in the 14th century was where the lower house of the Venetian Parliament gathered. Measuring 53 meters in length and 25 meters in width, this is the largest room in the Doge’s Palace. The room could accommodate up to 1800 citizens entitled to vote. Here you can see Paradise by Tintoretto, the world’s largest oil painting, reaching twenty-two metres in length. The ceiling was painted by another Venetian master, Veronese.

The Council Chamber

On the second floor is the Council Chamber, one of the most spectacular chambers in the palace. Here the Doge received the most important state visitors. Here you can spend a long time admiring  the ceiling painted by Veronese as well as his stunning depiction of the Battle of Lepanto above the tribune and works by Tintoretto. The museum itinerary also includes the Doge’s apartments with exquisite painted ceilings, ornate fireplaces and paintings by Titian and Giovanni Bellini.

On a private tour you can also visit the underground dimly lit prison (“pozzi”) and see the cell where the infamous Casanova was kept captive and from which he eventually escaped.

Photos via Flickr by: Isabel Moguer, Kars Alfrink, Andrew Stawarz.

Sestiere Cannaregio

Cannaregio is one of the six sestieri, or districts, of Venice located in the north of the city where you can get away from the maddening crowds and enjoy authentic Venetian life.

The area was settled in the 15th century, so Renaissance left a significant mark on Cannaregio’s planning making it more luminous and spacious than other sestieri. The great masters Titian and Tintoretto lived here.

Cannaregio

The Strada Nova opened in the 19th century is the main street in Cannaregio and the longest street in Venice. Here you will find many quaint shops, ice cream parlours, small bakeries and green grocers. The neighbourhood is home to the Jewish Ghetto with its five beautiful synagogues. The stunning Renaissance Church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli that has been recently restored is also located here. 

Another gem that is worth a visit is the Gothic Madonna dell'Orto Church built in the 14th century in red bricks with contrasting white stone decorations. Inside you can admire spectacular paintings by Tintoretto, who is also buried here.

Madonna dell'Orto

The famous Ca' d'Oro, one of the most beautiful palaces on the Grand Canal is found in Cannaregio. One of the best example of gothic architecture in Venice, the palace’s facade was once covered in gold (hence the name “golden house”). Today, the beautiful palace is home to the Galleria Giorgio Franchetti alla Ca' d'Oro. Stunning Ca' Vendramin Calergi and Palazzo Labia are also located in Cannaregio and are worth a visit.

Check out the charming small square Campo dei Mori with its pretty Palazzo del Cammello and three turbaned statues that, according to a local legend, are three brothers turned to stone as a punishment for their greed. 

Ca' d'Oro

In Cannaregio you will find some of the best Venetian bacari, typical small bars where local enjoy wine and snacks called “cicheti”. Alla Vedova (Cannaregio, 3912, Ramo Ca' d'Oro) serves delicious polpette (pork meatballs) and Venetian tripe. In Cantina Vecia Carbonera (2328, Cannaregio) try local artichokes and tiny panini with gorgonzola and leek. 

Photos via Flickr by: Rick Payette, Nick Bramhall, Jean-Pierre Dalbéra.

Drinking the wine of Venetian nobles on Mazzorbo

Although located only a short vaporetto ride from Venice, the little-known island of Mazzorbo seems like worlds away. With only a few couple of hundred resident it is hard to believe that 1000 years ago Mazzorbo was a lively settlement with thousands of inhabitants.

Mazzorbo

The island is connected to its more famous neighbour, Burano, with a long wooden footbridge and sees very few visitors. Winston Churchill used to come here with his easel to paint. Today, only the most curious tourists and people in the know arrive to this peaceful backwater to stroll along Mazzorbo’s few streets, wonder off to see cultivated fields and views over the lagoon, admire the 8^th century Church of Santa Caterina and … drink the local wine that Venetian nobles used to love. 

Venissa Vineyard

Wine connoisseurs know Mazzorbo for Scarpa Volo, the ancient estate encircled by medieval walls, which has been lovingly restored by the Bisol family, well-respected prosecco wine producers. The Bisols have been making wine for 21 generations and stepped in to save the local vineyard a decade ago. Once a thriving farm with fruit orchards, a vegetable garden, fishpond and vines had been in decay for centuries when the new owners arrived. They restored the estate and put all their energy into reviving la Dorona, the “golden grape” as it was called by the Doges of Venice, which had been 

forgotten for a long time. 

It is not an easy task to keep a vineyard on Mazzorbo: the constant threat of high water (“l’aqua alta”) and elevated salt levels of the soil limit production. As a consequence, the yield from the vines here is one of the lowest in the world. Every year between four and five thousand bottles of Venissa, highly prized white wine, as well as red, are produced in the vineyard. The wine is sold in gold foil embellished bottles hand-made by a Murano glass master. The vineyard has a simple hotel and a restaurant where gourmet and wine connoisseurs flock to enjoy exquisite food and the ancient wine.

Photos by: Michael Day/Flickr, Venissa/Facebook.